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Chiangmai : People, Language, Religions and Culture

People and Culture

Seventy percent of the land in the north is mountainous and in the past was densely forested, making overland communication difficult. As a result each valley developed slight variations in customs and language.

People

The people of the valleys refer to themselves as the "khon muang", and are of mixed origin. The first inhabitants were known as the Lawa. These people were joined by other gropus moving along the trading routes of the river valleys. Notable amongst thest groups were the Mon, who originated fro mthe region around Thaton in Burma. The Mon founded Haripunchai, a northern offshoot of the Dvaravati civilisation that dominated the western part of the Chao Phraya basin before the rise of the Khmer empire to the east. The latter, however, was never to extend its power into the northern valleys beyond Si Satchanalai. By the 13th century the dominant groups throughout upper Siam were ethnic Tai, who had been migrating south into the valleys since at least the 10th century (some theories plausibly suggest the Tai may have been in the area long before this date). In the north these peoples came to be known as the Tai Yuan, or "Khon Muang"

Until the European colonialism of the 19th century, the politics of the north was dominated by the struggles with the Burmese, and between the kingdoms of Ayutthaya, Lan Na and Lan Xang. Each military incursion involved forced relocation of populations to increase man power. Thus the wars of the region served mainly to mix ethnic Tai groups. The Burmese wars left Chiang Mai depleted of peoples, forcing Kawila to campaign and relocate people form neighboring "muang". He brought in Tai Yai from Shan State, Tai Khoen from Kengtung, Tai Leu from Sipsongpanna and Tai Yong from Muang Yong, East of Kengtung. He resettled each ethnic group in defined geographical areas; the Yong, for example, were settled near Lamphun. This resulted in subtle differences between communities in the valley that persist to this day.

In the Mid-19th century Burmese and Shan workers began arriving to work the forests, establishing the city's Shan communities. Missionaries and Westerners were soon to follow. While a very small number of Chinese merchants jad already migrated up the Ping to Chiang Mai, larger Chinese migration came overland when Muslim Haw Chinese arrived to settle permanently after the Panthay rebellion in Yunnan in 1873. It was the overseas Chinese, however, who were to have the greatest impact when they began arriving in the 1880s in increasing numbers, the following opportunities to trade or find labor.

The late 19th century also saw the beginings of hilltribes migrating south through the uplands, but the greatest numbers were to come after the communist takeover of China in 1949. However, the full effect of the Chinese revolution was delayed until after Ne Win's socialist coup in Burma in 1962. Muslim and Kuomintang Chinese, who had fled to Burma from Yunnan in 1949, had to migrate again to escape persecution by the Burmese military and so many came to Chiang Mai, settling in particular around Fang. They helped develop Chiang Mai city with their trade links to Burma, a trade that supplied items such as medicine for the Burmese black market in exchange for jade and others sometimes illicit, products. Finally, the economic boom of the late 20th century brought a significant increase in Thai migration from the south, as well as a sizable influx of foreigners.

Language

The main ethnic language of the north is "kham muang". Wit hthe differences in both vocabulary and tones, Northern Thai may be considered a different language from central Thai. Though the differences are diminishing as "kham muang" borrows from the state language, a person from central Thailand cannot immediately understand the northern language. Words of Indian origin trace their roots to Pali through the Mon civilisation, as opposed to those of central Thai which came from Sanskrit via the Khmer civilisation of Angkor. "Kham muang" has its own script used in religious texts, but most local people are unable to read it.

Religion

Although Mahayana Buddhism may have come to the region first via the Khmer empire and the Silk road form China, Sinhalese Theraveda Buddhism had become the dominant form of Buddhism by the end of the 14th century. Theravada Buddhism in its essence is about the "dhamma", the truth according to the Buddhist view. As the state religion of Lan Na, however, it became connected with Brahmanic court traditions. These came form the Indianised empires of the Khmer at Angkor and the Burmans at Pagan, which were at the height of thier power in the 12th a d 13th centuries. Prior to hte dominance of these beliefs, the Tai were animists with a fetility cult centered on the wet-rice cultivation cycle. The blend of this Tai spirit world with Buddhism has resulted in the variety of customs and religious practice today.

Central to the traditional Thai view of the cosmos is the cycle of rebirth. To commit sin is to be reborn into a hell world, and to make a merit is to progress into a better after-life. A forest monk may explain this to a Westerner as an allegory for hte laws of cause and effect known as "karma". To a Thai villager, the holy images in the temples are hte home of powerful spirits, and the vivid depictions of heaven and hell are maps that help him find his way in the cycle of seasons and years.

The temple has long been the social centre of rural Thai communities and Buddhism is woven into the fabric of rural life. The monkhood originally provided the only education available and served to occupy males without work, especially during the rainy season. To this day folk festivals involve making merit by supporting the monkhood with food and labor. Until quite recently the temple was the main outlet for artistic creativity, the greatest works coming as a result of sponsorship by the ruling nobility. By so doing the rulers not only gained merit, but also gained political legitimacy, as pious works were seen as a crucial part of a leader's majesty.

Buddhist values pervade the character of the Thai, who value maintaining harmony in relationships very highly. To avoid causing offence, Thais pay much attention to outward appearance. However, they also prize having a 'cool heart' - or being 'Jai Yen'. This means that you should not allow yourself to become 'hot' with desire and at the mercy of worldly passions which can lead to harmful actions. Buddhism also teaches tolerance, and so people have been free to practice others religions. Islam first arrived with Muslim Yunnanese who have been trading in the northern valleys since the time of the Mongols, and the first permanent Christian mission was established in 1867.

Source: Tourism Authority of Thailand

   
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